Micro Stablized Laser Controller 1 (µSLC1)

(For Single or Dual Mode and Two Frequency Axial Zeeman HeNe Lasers)

Installation and Operation Manual

Version 2.12 (4-Sep-2016)

Copyright © 1994-2016
Sam Goldwasser
--- All Rights Reserved ---

For contact info, please see the Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Email Links Page.

Reproduction of this document in whole or in part is permitted if both of the following conditions are satisfied:
  1. This notice is included in its entirety at the beginning.
  2. There is no charge except to cover the costs of copying.


Table of Contents


Preface

Author and Copyright

Author: Samuel M. Goldwasser

For contact info, please see the Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Email Links Page.

Copyright © 1994-2016
All Rights Reserved

Reproduction of this document in whole or in part is permitted if both of the following conditions are satisfied:

1. This notice is included in its entirety at the beginning.
2. There is no charge except to cover the costs of copying.

DISCLAIMER

µSLC1 is intended for use in hobbyist, experimental, research, and other applications where a bug in the hardware, firmware, or software, will not have a significant impact on the future of the Universe or anything else. While every effort has been made to avoid this possibility, µSLC1 is an on-going development effort. We will not be responsible for any consequences of such bugs including but not limited to damage to the wafer FAB you picked up on eBay for $1.98 + shipping, financial loss from the waste of 28 spools of ABS due to the office 3-D printer fabricating a part with random dimensions due to loss of lock, or bruising to your pet's ego from any number of causes directly or indirectly related to µSLC1. ;-)

Acknowledgement

Thanks to Jan Beck for getting me interested in microcomputer development. If anyone had told me six months ago that I'd be writing code for an Arduino-compatible board - and enjoying it (sort of) - I would have suggested they were certifiably nuts. ;-) Links to his Web information may be found under References.


Introduction

Micro Stabilized Laser Controller 1 (µSLC1) is an inexpensive but highly flexible system for implementing a single or dual polarized mode stabilized HeNe laser or an Axial Zeeman two frequency HeNe laser like the ones shown in the diagram below.

Single or Dual Mode Stabilized HeNe Laser using µSLC1 Running on Atmega 328 Nano 3.0

µSLC1 replaces most of the electronic components like op-amps and filter/feedback networks that an analog controller would require with a programmable microprocessor. µSLC1 is not unique in this regard as all but the simplest modern lasers are designed in a similar way. A digital controller is not fundamentally superior to an analog one. However, being easily programmable, it does provide much more flexibility to implement features and optimize performance. µSLC1 is based on a readily available Arduino-compatible Atmega 328 Nano 3.0 board, along with a hand-full of discrete electronic parts. The firmware it runs should be capable of locking virtually any one or two mode HeNe laser (including Zeeman HeNe lasers) which meets certain criteria in terms of size and mode behavior. But if needed, the firmware source code will be available and can be easily modified.

This document provides assembly, installation, and operating instructions for the µSLC1 hardware and firmware to be used with either a commercial laser head like a Spectra-Physics 117A/B/C or a home-built stabilized HeNe laser using, for example, a barcode scanner HeNe laser tube. It also includes µSLC1 Windows Graphical User Interface as an option to enable monitoring of the laser or to control or fine tune locking parameters.

For use with an two frequency axial Zeeman HeNe laser, there are minor changes:

Two Frequency Axial Zeeman HeNe Laser using µSLC1 Running on Atmega 328 Nano 3.0

It is assumed the reader is familiar stabilized HeNe lasers and has a need for one. If not, there is probably little reason to be using µSLC1. The output of a stabilized HeNe laser doesn't look any different than that of a non-stabilized HeNe laser (or $1 laser pointer, for that matter). ;-)

The photo below shows an Axial Zeeman laser built almost totally from scratch. It doesn't even incorporate any HP/Agilent parts except for the recycled 5501A baseplate, but that doesn't count. :) The feedback for stabilization utlizes the waste beam from the back of the tube rather than the front (shown in the diagrams, above). But the REF signal IS obtained via a beam-splitter in the main beam.

Sam's Home-Built Axial Zeeman Two Frequency HeNe Laser using µSLC1

The same setup could be configured as a (non-Zeeman) single or dual mode stabilized HeNe laser by removing the stacks of magnets surrounding the tube cylinder and Quarter WavePlates (QWPs) mounted in the blue sleeves at the rear and front (not visible), and adding a polarizer to select the desired mode. Or as a transverse Zeeman laser by doing that and replacing the magnets with ones suitable for providing a transverse field.


Specifications

Specifications are subject to change without notice. :-)


HeNe Laser Assembly The heart of this system is the HeNe laser, which includes the laser tube itself, HeNe laser power supply, tube heater, and beam sampler and photodiodes monitoring the two polarized modes:


Wiring Diagram and Parts List

The diagram below - a sort of a hybrid between an electronic schematic and wiring diagram - shows the parts required for an Atmega328 Nano 3.0 system (with or without the GUI) incorporating all the bells and whistles. (Well at least the LEDs in decorator colors.) But for basic functionality, LEDs for Locked and Error would be all that's needed. The heater is assumed to use 12 V but higher or lower voltage can be used as appropriate based on heater resistance. The transistor and its base resistor should be suitable for anything up to around 2 amps.

µSLC1 Schematic/Wiring Diagram using Atmega 328 Nano 3.0

The following are the components required to put together a basic system for the controller. These parts are available from electronics distributors like Digikey and should total no more than around $10 to $15. The Atmega is available from many eBay sellers for as little as $2 delivered. This list does NOT include the laser and its associated optical and electronic parts.

For those not familiar with the common resistor color code (Black/0, Blown/1, Red/2, Orange/3, Yellow/4, Green/5, Blue/6, Violet/7, Gray/8, White/9), the resistors shown above are 150 ohms (brown-green-brown or 15 with 1 zero) ohms and 330 ohms (33 with 1 zero) ohms. The gold stripe indicates 5 percent tolerance on the value but for the use here, tolerance doesn't matter. (It's possible the resistors you use will have 4 stripes where 3 of them are the value and the 4th is the multiplier, along with one for tolerance. If in doubt confirm the value with a multimeter.) The chart below is from Digikey. (If the link decays, a Web search will readily find another one.)


Resistor Color Code Chart (from the Digikey Web site)

The photo below shows the first version of µSLC1. It matches the schematic/wiring diagram above except for some minor details like specific part values, lack of filter capacitors and snubber, resistors instead of trim-pots for mode gain, and differences in LED colors.

Prototype µSLC1 using OLD WIRING - DO NOT COPY

Other parts like jumper wire (solid insulated #22-#26AWG for breadboard connections), cables to attach the PDs and heater, and connectors (if desired) will be required to complete the system.

Most of the connections on the breadboard are made with the electronic parts themselves or bits of excess wire cut from their leads. But there will be a need for a few insulated jumpers which should use #22-#24 solid hookup wire stripped to fit in the holes.

It may be desirable to wire the laser with the photodiodes and heater as a separate assembly, using some sort of connector to attach it to the controller. One suggestion is to use DB9F (controller) and DB9M (laser) connectors wired according to the Spectra-Physics 117/A pinout:

       Pin   Function
     ----------------------
        1    Heater
        2    Interlock
        3    Ground
        4    PD-P Anode
        5    PD-P Cathode
        6    Heater
        7    Interlock
        8    PD-S Anode
        9    PD-S Cathode

DC power supplies for the heater (12 VDC at 1 A max assuming a heater of not less than 12 ohms cold resistance) and the Nano 3.0 (5 VDC at less than 1/2 A, unless always connected to USB) will also be required.

CAUTION: The Nano 3.0 can take +12 VDC on VIN since it has an on-board 5 V regulator. But apparently there can be problems when connecting to USB as I found out. Inadvertent ground loops (or something) can result in erasing its brain or damaging the USB chip. Exactly why this occurred is still not clear. The NANO was connected to USB and then the 12 V adapter was plugged in, at which point the USB dropped out, never to be heard from again with this board. The regulated wall adapter was on the same circuit and isolated in any case, so it should not have caused problems. The Atmega microprocessor is still running something so it's not totally dead, thus the suspicion that the problem is the USB chip. But I've been unable to change it so far, even with a programmer. Until the cause can be determined and remedied, it is recommended that USB (or a USB wall adapter) be used to power everything but the heater, which must have its own separate supply even if it runs on 5 V. When used without USB, VIN can be connected to the heater supply if is between 7 and 12 V. Above 12 V, the power dissipation in the LM78M05 on the NANO board could become problematic depending on the current consumption of the LEDs and any other loads. However, an appropriate number of diodes like 1N4004s could be put in series with the heater voltage to drop it to a lower value for VIN. A silicon diode will have a voltage drop of approximately 0.7 V.

Controlling Commercial Stabilized Laser Heads

Building your own laser is not essential. µSLC1 can be used with many commercial laser tubes/heads from, in, or intended for stabilized HeNe lasers. While the PCB connector wiring is for the SP-117/A and functionally identical Melles Griot 05-STP-901, others can be accomodated with minor changes, mostly to the photodiode inputs and heater drive voltage. Beyond those, the loop would need to be tuned. (But that would be the fun part!)

A few are listed below:

    Manufacturer/Model    
  --------------------------------------
    Coherent/Tropel 100,200
    Lasangle RB-1
    Melles Griot 05-STP-901
    Newport NL-1
    REO 32734,33099,39727
    Spectra-Physics 117,117A,117B,117C
    Zygo Axiom 2/20 and 7701,7702,7705

See the info on these and other stabilized HeNe lasers, and other related information in Sam's Laser FAQ under References.

Printed Circuit Board

A PCB has been designed to create a more permanent setup. It has a DB9F for the laser head. The circuit is virtually identical to the one above, with just a few minor hooks for future enhancements.

Version 1.0 is now available. I must have been smoke'n sump'n when I did the layout as there are a couple of errors (can you believe it?!). These only impact compatibility with the Spectra-Physics 117/A (and functionally identical Melles Griot 05-STP-901) laser head and digital purity. ;-)

Rough µSLC1 PCB Layout Showing Controls, Indicators, and Connectors (Left) and Completed PCB doing "Lamp Test" (Right)

The Nano 3.0 board should probably be installed in a socket but everything else can be soldered. It will not fit in a machined pin socket but will in a leaf spring socket. However, 30 pin sockets are difficult to find so making one up out of pieces of a pair of 24 pins sockets, or two 15 pin strips may be required. And since the brightness versus power for LEDs can vary dramatically depending on type and color, the current limiting resistors for the LEDs should be selected before soldering to equalize their brightness (if you care). For the LEDs I used, this required the resistance to range from 330 ohms to 5.6K ohms. The 3 pin header is for power (+5 Ext, GND, +12V). The +5V Ext is optional for VIN rather than 12V. The 2 pin header is for the REF frequency input for use with Zeeman lasers. The PCB is 2x2 inches. The remainder of the board is taken up with mundane things like resistors and capacitors. ;-) Since its size is mostly limited by the Nano and DB9F, using SMT components would not be very beneficial and would make hobbyist assembly and modifications (and mine!) more of a pain.

Regardless of whether you decide to use the PCB, it is recommended that the system first be built up on the solderless breadboard to confirm that the default components are satisfactory. Depending on the specific laser tube, the waste beam (of sampled beam) may be lower or higher in power than what is optimal for the P-Mode and S-Mode adjustments. The snubber RC network may also need to be modified depending on the laser head cable length and type. Also, LED brightness can vary significantly and their current limiting resistor values may need to be changed (probably to higher values to reduce the brightness). With my assortment of LEDs, the resistor ranged from 330 ohms to 5.6K ohms to match brightness. Of course, there's no need to install all the LEDs but they do add a touch of class. :)

Atmega/Arduino Pin Assignments

Here is a list of the Atmega 328 Nano 3.0 external pins used by µSLC1:

 Arduino Pin   Physical Pin   Function
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
     D3             6         P-Mode LED (5V PWM, 0 to 100 percent)
     D5             8         REF Frequency input (TTL 0 to ~6 MHz)
     D6             9         Heater Drive (5V PWM, 0 to 100 percent)
     D7            10         State bit 0 LED (0 or 5V)
     D8            11         State bit 1 LED (0 or 5V)
     D9            12         State bit 2 LED (0 or 5V)
    D10            13         Locked LED (0 or 5V)
    D11            14         S-Mode LED (5V PWM, 0 to 100 percent)
    D12            15         Error LED (0 or 5V)
    D13            16         Heartbeat LED (Atmega "L")

     A0            20         P-Mode input (0 to 5V)
     A1            21         S-Mode input (0 to 5V)
     A2            22         External Modulation input (future, 0 to 5V)

    +5V            27         +5 VDC from on-board regulator or USB
    VIN            30         Optional DC input (+7 to +20 VDC)
    GND           4,29        Ground/Common

See CAUTION above with respect to power.

Computer and Operating System Requirements

If I sell you the Atmega board, a version of the firmware will already be installed. Otherwise, a PC will be required to compile and upload the firmware. And since there will no doubt be numerous updates, this will be required in any event. :)


Latest Versions of the Firmware and GUI

Installing the Arduino Device Driver

Before the Atmega board can be used, a Windows device driver must be installed to enable upload of firmware and communications with the µSLC1 GUI.

There are many ways of doing this - some which may be overly complex, but what I've done for the Atmega 328 Nano 3.0 board is to go to Arduino Software and install the current version of the Arduino IDE (V1.6.9 as of May 2016). (I'm not sure if the board needs to be plugged in to a USB port during this process, but mine was. During the install process, it will ask to install the drivers. Reply "Yes" to all its requests. When the Arduino IDE is started for the first time, go to "Tools", "Board", and select "Arduino Nano". If the Nano is plugged in, its COM port should appear under "Tools", "Port". If you received the Nano from me, it will have µSLC1 firmware. Go to "Tools", "Serial Monitor". The Serial Monitor windows should appear and after a few seconds start pumping out data from the board. Select a baud rate of 57600 to turn it into something meaningful. With no laser, the data should look something like:

 0 0 0 9745 8 6104
 0 0 0 9746 10 144
 0 0 0 9747 11 5
 0 0 0 9748 15 260

(The 4th value is a sequence number which should be incrementing by 1.)

More info on software, drivers, and more at Getting Started with Arduino and Genuino on Windows.

The more complex installations may be required if you bought the Nano from eBay or off the back of a truck, depending on whether it has the genuine FTDI USB communications chip. And even more complex if it doesn't have the bootloader installed. Links for driver installation may be found under References under "Arduino". Instructions for burning the bootloader may be found in the section: Burning Bootloaders into the Nano or Pro Micro.

The Arduino IDE can be used for compiling and uploading, though I prefer UECIDE, below, because compilation and uploading is much faster. For use with the Atmega328 Nano 3.0, either is fine. However the ATtiny and Pro Micro may only be supported by the Arduino IDE. (The latter may come up as Arduino Leonardo though.)


Loading UECIDE

UECIDE will work with all versions of the firmware. But the only version of UECIDE I've had success compiling firmware without errors is Version 0.8.8alpha17 though I assume that more recent versions like 0.8.8alpha22 should also be satisfactory. Assuming that, download it from UECIDE: The Universal Embedded Computing IDE. And other versions probably work, they just hate me. :( :) If for some reason 0.8.8alpha22 doesn't work for you, I can provide 0.8.8alpha17, but it probably won't work for you either. ;-)

The UECIDE files should be unzipped to any convenient location on your computer. UECIDE requires around 160 MB there, and another 600+ MB for support files typically somewhere like c:\users\YourUserID\AppData\Local\UECIDE. This location can be changed in File->Preferences. If doing this after having configured UECIDE, copy all the files to the desired destination first, then change the data directory in File->Preferences. DO NOT delete the original UECIDE directory or the preferences file! :) Otherwise, the configuration information will all be lost.

Compared to most applications, UECIDE takes forever to start up even on a fast PC. So be patient. That's the bad news. The good news is that compiling and uploading takes literally only a few seconds, much faster than with the Arduino IDE or MPIDE (another one you don't need to know about). Go figure. :)

The first thing UECIDE will likely do is to tell you that no boards are installed and then open the Plugin Manager. If it does not, do it manually by going to Tools->Plugin Manager. At first the pane along the left will only show the word "Plugins". But after a couple minutes, it should update with a list: Plugins, Libraries, Boards, Cores, Compilers, System. The following are required:

For each of these click on "Install". Installing the arduino board will probably automagically install the other related files and may take several minutes. Confirm that each entry has a green check mark next to it.

Close the Plugin Manager and go to "Hardware" or check the status line at the bottom of the window to confirm that the proper Board (Arduino Nano w/ Atmega 328), core (Arduino 1.6.x)), and Compiler (GCC 4.8.1 for AVR) has been selected. Correct it if not.

Some other quirks of UECIDE that I've found:

Plug the Atmega board into any available USB port. The power LED should come on. If I (Sam) sent you the Atmega board, it will have been loaded with a version of the µSLC1 firmware and the user LED will be flashing at about 5 Hz rate to let you know it is alive. But by the time you've received it, the firmware will probably be out of date, so reloading will be required in any case. :)

Assuming the driver has already been installed, go to Hardware->Serial Terminal and select its COM port. Typically, this will be the highest number COM port, or perhaps the only one, since no one uses real COM ports for much of anything anymore.

UECIDE should remember the configuration settings automatically upon exiting. These are tied to each instance of the UECIDE window, so it's possible to easily deal with multiple totally different board types.


Uploading the µSLC1 Firmware

The firmware is provided as a source file which probably has an extension of ".ino" (though the specific name doesn't matter - it's just a text file). However, the name may NOT contain any dashes "-" due to the peculiar restrictions of Java or something. Make a directory with the name of the firmware (without the extension) and put the firmware file there. For example, if the file is named uSLC1_FW_v123.ino, make a directory called uSLC1_fw_v123. and put uSLC1_FW_v123.ino in it. Note that case matters so the name of the directory and name of the firmware file (without the extension) must match case character-by-character exactly. Thus uSLC1_fw_v35.ino is not the same as uSLC1_FW_v35.ino.

  1. Plug the Nano 3.0 board into a USB port. Windows should recognize it with the usual annoying sound of a USB device it recognizes. I've occasionally seen problems using a USB port replicator though these generally are acceptable. But if the board doesn't come up, plug it into a direct USB port.

  2. Use Ctrl-O to open the firmware file. Select the directory. The source code should appear in the same window unless a file is already open, in which case a new window will appear. (If UECIDE thinks it's a firmware directory, it won't even allow you to select the file but will immediately open it. If the name of the directory and file don't match - including case - it will produce an error like "file not found". What a concept? ;-)

  3. Use Ctrl-U to compile and upload the firmware to the board. This typically takes only a few seconds on a PC that is less then 35 years old. :) Near the end, the green status bar will extend nearly all the way to the right and the LEDs on the board will then begin flashing in several different patterns in anticipation of getting new and (hopefully) improved firmware. ;-) The board will be automatically reset and start running the firmware. During this time, confirmation messages similar to the following will appear:

       Compiling...
         * Compiling sketch...
         * Compiling core...
           > arduino
         * Compiling libraries...
         * Linking sketch...
       Compiling done.
       Memory usage
         * Program size: 7532 bytes
         * Memory size: 1092 bytes
         * Compilation took 8.634 seconds
       Uploading firmware...
         * Resetting board...
         * Uploading...
         * Resetting board...
         * Upload Complete
    

Once the firmware has started, all the LEDs will come on at full brightness for 2 seconds as a sort of "Lamp Test" (including the Heater LED if the heater supply is on) and then the on-board LED "L" should be flashing at a 5 Hz rate to let you know it's alive.

The firmware is retained in non-volatile memory so uploading only needs to be done once - or until a new version is available!

Uploading new firmware does not affect the user locking parameters stored in Atmega EEPROM. However, should the format change (rarely), the firmware will revert to the default locking parameters. In that case user parameters that differ from the defaults will need to be re-entered via the GUI Command window and then saved.

The firmware may also be compiled without uploading by using Ctrl-R. Since you haven't messed with the code, it should compile without errors. This is slightly faster for testing and doesn't use the board at all so it can be off doing whatever it pleases. :)


Installing and Running the µSLC1 GUI

Note that µSLC1 does not require the GUI to control the laser, but it is convenient for troubleshooting and/or fine tuning locking parameters.

Save the µSLC1 GUI .exe file into any convenient directory. (There's a small chance that the first time it's run, an error is produced since there is no configuration file associated with it. Simply continue and the GUI will come up. When it is closed using "Finish", valid settings will be saved so that the error should ot appear again.)

Important: DO NOT reset the board while the µSLC1 GUI is running. The GUI will need to be aborted, the board may need to be reset again, and only then can the GUI be restarted. However, the GUI may be aborted and restarted ad-infinitum without affecting the firmware and laser. ;-)

The graphic below shows the typical GUI main window at startup.

Typical µSLC1 Main Window at Startup

Yes, this bears remarkable similarity to the µMD1 GUI due to having inhereted much of its DNA. ;-) When first started, all the readouts are loaded with zeros and the fake LEDs are turned on to show that they are there. Sort of a high tech "lamp test". ;-)

GUI Operation

The µSLCS1 GUI (henceforth simply called the "GUI") comes up with the P-Mode amplitude in the main readout. The only action required by the user is to select the USB COM port. Once selected, the readouts and graph will begin displaying the data from the laser. Behind the scenes, the GUI has uploaded the Locking Control Block from the firmware to update its widgets with the current set of locking parameters.

Important: The GUI can be started at any time but the firmware must be running before the USB COM port is selected or else the Universe may implode or explode, which one occurs and when has yet to be determined. :) Confirmation of this issue is left as an exercise for the user. ;-) There should be no need to reset the firmware when restarting the GUI - it will pick where it left off.

Note that the GUI is NOT required to run the laser with the µSLC1 controller and starting or restarting the GUI has absolutely no effect on laser behavior. (Or at least it shouldn't.) Unless messing with the parameters in the "Laser Firmware Hacking" (Command) window, which will be explained below. For most users, the GUI will only be used to monitor the laser. Actually, for most laser users, there is no need for the GUI at all! It's been developed primarily as a development aid and for unapologetic laser jock technoduibes. ;-)

Main Window Controls and Indicators

All possible controls and indicators are shown below.

All µSLC1 Main Window Controls, Readouts, LEDs, and Graph

The first set are the selection buttons at the top of the window. Note that except for USB Port, these do not invoke drop-down menus and require only a single click to activate.

These buttons may all be accessed via Alt-first letter.

The next set are the buttons for selecting what's shown in the Main Readout and what is plotted:

Main Window Indicators

Next are the various fields for displaying information in the Main Window:

When the firmware is started (power on to the board, reset, or just after the firmware is uploaded), the controller enters State 0, Startup. When it detects laser output, it goes to State 1 which drives the heater at full power while monitoring the length of the mode sweep cycle.

The graphic below shows a snapshot of the Main Window about halfway through warmup. The mode sweep cycle at this point is around 8 seconds.

Typical µSLC1 Main Window about Halfway through Warmup

Once the mode sweep cycle time exceeds the "Mode Period" value, the controller goes to State 3, Locking. There it checks for the Loop Difference to settle down below the "Locking Tolerance" value. It then goes to State 5, Locked.

The graphic below shows a snapshot of the Main Window just after the laser has locked. On the left portion of the graph is the laser mode sweep of the P-Mode and S-Modes prior to locking.

Typical µSLC1 Main Window shortly after Locking

The laser will remain locked forever unless the P-Mode or S-Mode go bonkers (technical term!). If it does go bonkers, the controller will go to State 7, Error and try again.

Data from the Atmega board is sent at a rate of just over 60 pps. At a compression of 5, the time between horizontal divisions is close to 10 seconds. However time compression of the plot may be set up to 1,000 so that more than 2 hours of data may be visible. Although the data is only subsampled, not averaged, graph averaging can do something similar.

Use with Two-Frequency Zeeman Laser

As noted, µSLC1 will also work with axial or transverse Zeeman HeNe lasers. Where there is an optical receiver that generates a TTL output at the split or difference frequency of the two output components, the Main Screen of the GUI will change slightly. Specifically, a readout the REF Frequency will appear under the "LEDs" and the name of the Main Window will change to: "Micro-Stabilized Two-Freqency Zeeman Laser Controller". These will appear as sson as activity is detected on the REF input (and remain present even if it disappears). Thus, the readout will track the variation in REF frequency during warmup and locking. This screen-shot is typical of the axial Zeeman laser shown in the photo above just after locking. Locking was preceeded by a heating cycle and cooling cycle to optimize the lock point. The jagged nature of mode sweep is typical of any axial Zeeman laser due to mode competition where both right and left circular polarized components are present. (The color of the S-Mode changed from red to orange only because this is a later version of the GUI and I'm not going to go back and replace the previous GUI screen-shots!)

Typical µSLC1 Main Window shortly after Locking Zeeman Laser

Laser Firmware Hacking (Command) Window

The Command windows provides access to most of the parameters that affect locking behavior. While the basic locking algorithm and its state machine cannot be changed, it can be directed to go to any state and values to adjust the P-Mode and S-Mode gain/offset, PID gain coefficients, locking error bounds and timing, etc. can be entered. Changes may then be saved to non-volatile memory in the Atmega chip.

The way these affect the firmware operation differ based on whether it is a state change or parameter change:

Typical µSLC1 Command "Laser Firmware Hacking Window"

CAUTION: Messing with many of the following will result in a laser that never stabilizes (at least until the firmware is restarted or reset to default values). However, permanent damage to anything but your ego is unlikely.

State Commands (and their parameters)

Note that for States 2, 4, and 6, if the heater drive is selected to be other than 0% or 100%, the value displayed in the Heater Drive readout(s) may differ by a fraction of 1 percent from the requested power due to roundoff error in conversion from the range of 0 to 100% that us humans understand to the PWM range of 0 to 255 and back again. Live with it. :)

If none of the state or locking parameters (below) have been changed, restarting (going to State 0 or resetting or reloading the firmware and GUI) will generally restore your laser to supreme happiness (assuming it ever was supremely happy). ;-)

Firmware locking parameters

These take effect as soon as a widget is "clicked" (up or down), but not by simply changing its value.

Load/Save

The parameters that control locking are stored in the Atmega. There are three 32 word data structures:

For reference, the LCB, DCB, and UCB format is as follows:

 Location   Parameter           Range/Value
-------------------------------------------------------------------
     0      EEPROMFormat        Firmware compatibility value
     1      PmodeMin            0 to 818 for 0 to 4 V (0 V)
     2      SmodeMin               "              "   (0 V)
     3      PmodeMax            205 to 1023 for 1 to 5 V (5 V)   
     4      SmodeMax               "              "      (5 V)

     5      ModePeriod          10 to 1800 for 1 to 180 s (14 s)

     6      ControlRegister     Lock Side:
                                  Bit 0 = 0: Red
                                  Bit 0 = 1: Blue

                                Lock Type:
                                  Bits 2:1 = 00: Frequency
                                  Bits 2:1 = 01: Intensity P-Mode
                                  Bits 2:1 = 10: Intensity S-Mode

     7      LockingTolerance    1 to 511 (8)
     8      ReLockCount         0 to 9999 (1)

     9      ProportionalGain    0 to 32 (10)
    10      IntegralGain        0 to 32 (10)
    11      DifferentialGain    0 to 32 (0, presently ignored)

    12      Duration0            10 to 6000  for  1 to  600 s (120 V)
    13      Duration1           100 to 18000 for 10 to 1800 s (180 V)
    14      Duration2            10 to 6000  for  1 to  600 s (30 V)
    15      Duration3            10 to 3000  for  1 to  300 s (20 V)
    16      Duration4            10 to 18000 for  1 to 1800 s (15 V)
    17      Duration5           300 to 18000 for 30 to 1800 s (300 V)
    18      Duration6            10 to 18000 for  1 to 1800 s (360 V)
    19      Duration7            10 to 18000 for  1 to 1800 s (120 V)

    20      HeaterValue0        0 to 100 percent (0 %)
    21      HeaterValue1           "        "    (100 %)
    22      HeaterValue2           "        "    (100 %)
    23      HeaterValue3           "        "    (50 %)
    24      HeaterValue4           "        "    (0 %)
    25      HeaterValue5           "        "    (50 %)
    26      HeaterValue6           "        "    (0 %)
    27      HeaterValue7           "        "    (0 %)

    28      Spare1 

    29      Offset              0 to 1023 for 0 to 5 V (0 V)
    30      Intensity              "              "    (2.5 V)

    31      CheckSum            Not implemented

Ranges and default values subject to change without notice. ;-)

When the firmware starts, the DCB is copied to the LCB unless a valid UCB has been saved, in which case it is copied to the LCB. The LCB is then read out of the Atmega over USB into the GUI Command Window widgets.

Note that while there is no way to save the locking parameters to a file explicitly (and there never will be!), a record can be made of them by starting the GUI, opening a log file, enabling capture, and then opening the USB Port. The first thing the GUI does is to upload the LCB in use from the firmware which will show up in the log file as a consecuative 32 sample block near the start with Low Speed Codes from 130 to 161. Reformatting as desired is left as an exercise for the determined student. ;-)

The next set of widgets are for diagnostic purposes. If they don't seem to make any sense, that's by design and it shouldn't keep you up at night. ;-)

And finally, the quickest way out of the hacker's window:

If any of the parameters have been modified in the GUI and sent to the firmware but not saved, exiting the GUI (X or Finish) will ask if they should be saved before actually relegating them to the bit bucket. However, even if not saved, they are still in Atmega memory as long as the board hasn't been reset or power cycled. So, if the GUI is restarted, they will be retrieved automagically and can still be saved via the Command window. :)

Note that any changes made in the Command window before opening the USB Port will be lost when it is opened and the LCB is uploaded automatically from the firmware.


Troubleshooting

Naturally, all is expected to go smoothly. But if it doesn't, here are some common problems. Some of these may be bugs in the firmware or GUI as hard as that is to believe. So, if you find something that cannot be solved based on what's below, contact us for a timely response:

Note: The following assumes the use of the Atmega Nano 3.0 board. If you've somehow figured out how to get the Pro Micro, change any references below to pins as appropriate. If you're using the ATtiny, there is no GUI support, period. So any failure of the GUI to do anything is a feature, not a bug. ;-)

The first set of problems deal with the board independent of the GUI and assumes that all the LEDs are present. However, some also apply to the readouts of the GUI. "LEDs" below refer to either physical LEDs or the fake ones of the GUI, as appropriate. ;-)

The following problems are GUI-related:

More coming soon.


Controller-Only Version of uSLC1 for ATtiny85

The µSLC1 firmware has been ported to the Digispark ATtiny85 development board but has not been fully tested with a laser. That would be your job should you decide to accept the challenge. :) The core locking routines are virtually identical, but all GUI and EEPROM code has been stripped out. Thus, any custom settings would need to be made as changes to the firmware parameters before compiling. Even then it's a tight fit in program memory.

ATtiny wiring

Only 3 connections (and power) are required for the board. What could be simpler?

µSLC1 Schematic/Wiring Diagram using ATtiny85 Digispark

There is also a version of this board labeled "ATtiny85" which should be functionally similar but with a slightly different layout and a proper USB connector. :)

The single on-board LED serves as a multi-mode status display (documented in the firmware). To further simplify the circuit, eliminate the Heater LED, but then it would be boring. :)

VIN goes directly to a 78L05 regulator so the +12 VDC for the heater could be used to power the board when not connected to USB. DO NOT use them both at the same time. CAUTION: There is no protection on +5V power. So when connected to USB, any wiring mistakes or failures that result in excessive current from +5 VDC to GND will pull it from the USB port. Depending on the computer's USB subsystem, this could be bad. It has been suggested that connecting the ATtiny board through a USB port replicator or hub might provide better protection. USB is supposed to handle overloads gracefully but not all implementations do.

ATtiny firmware

µSLC1 ATTiny85 Firmware Version 02 is believed to be functional. At least it compiles without errors and the Status LED behaves as advertised. ;-) Programming and upload support uses the Arduino IDE. The board must be disconnected from USB for use with a laser since a USB pin is used for both programming and signal input. (Or a DPDT switch can be used to disconnect it.) Information on installing the ATTiny drivers and compiling and uploading the firmware may be found under References.


Version of uSLC1 for Pro Micro Atmega32U4

The µSLC1 firmware has been ported to the Pro Micro Atmega32U4 development board but has not been tested. It is not known yet whether this board will work with the GUI either, but it does support all the LEDs. :) Almost everything is identical to that of the Atmega Nano 3.0 wiring and firmware except for pin locations. Support is via the Arduino IDE.

Note that there are two versions of this board: 5 V/16 MHz and 3.3 V/8 MHz. There is no point in using the latter unless you have a specific need for lower power (like this matters with a power gobbling HeNe laser!) or to be 3.3 V compatible. Confirm the version before buying.

However, I have more or less given up on going any further with the Pro Micro. There were just too many issues that didn't have obvious solutions. These relate to the Arduino IDE, windows driver, Pro Micro hardware, and probably the firmware. I do not know whether they are independent, or if a single mater issue is at work here.

  1. Driver compatibility: While it was possible to compile and upload code to the board, the RX (yellow) LED was constantly flashing at a 1 Hz or so rate, even with a NOP sketch loaded. In fact this persisted with the Nano as well preventing code from running properly unless just uploaded. It was only present if the Arduino IDE was running. To remedy this, the Arduino IDE had to be dinstalled and reinstalled. Even with the Pro Micro support enabled, there is still no flashing RX. Go figure. However, the quirk seems to also be present if another IDE, UECIDE, is running, probably due to autodiscovery of USB devices (which is enabled by default).

  2. Inconsistent assignment of USB COM port numbers: Due to the way the boot loader and communications is implemented, 2 ports are actually used and their numbering sometimes changed at random. Duplicate port numbers even appeared at times and there was no way to know which was the real one. This may eventually settle down so that the same assignment is used for consecutive uploads.

  3. USB dropout: After a random length of time, the USB port would simply disappear until the board was power cycled.

  4. Limited number of packets sent: Using the Arduino IDE serial monitor, data could be seen being sent from the Pro Micro (for use by the GUI). But after approximately 7360 packets (consisting of the 6 numbers), the serial monitor would freeze and the Pro Micro interrupt might stop working then or at some random time later.

  5. No response using GUI: While the data format was correct coming from the Pro Micro (as verified by the serial monitor), the µSLC1 GUI never recognized it - the graph never scrolled and the TX LED which would be on at a high repetition rate using the serial monitor was never lit.

  6. USB port not recognized: Finally, the last straw, was that when attempting to reload firmware, Windows refused to recognize the Pro Micro USB port with the error: "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)". The board now doesn't come up on multiple PCs. Now, only the power LED did anything.

After (6) occurred, it wasn't clear whether the microprocessor got fried, a USB pin became disconnected on the board, or the bootloader firmware became corrupted. But I figured I would attempt to reload the bootloader just in case based on Burning Bootloader on Pro Micro. The plan was to use an Atmega 328 Nano 3.0 as the Arduino ISP. After wiring it as in the description and plugging it in, both boards appeared to be receiving power but then my PC belched up the "Blue Screen of Death" and rebooted. The error had something to do with closing the USB driver improperly. Exactly how that could have been caused by the wiring between the two boards is not at all clear. I'd never seen any manner of screwup on a USB device crash Windows before.

Not to give up just yet and still hHoping that the problem was a corrupted bootloader, I loaded Arduino 1.6.9 with the Pro Micro add-in and Nano driver on a non-critical XP laptop (just in case bad things happened) and tried again. This time nothing bad happened and the bootloader was burnt sucessfully, so the Pro Micro is back in shape. (See the detailed procedure below adapted specifically for use with the Atmega 328 Nano 3.0 as the ISP.) However, issues (3), (4), and (5) persist. To keep the board preoccupied and happy for now, I loaded an alternating RX/TX LED blinkie sketch. ;-)

If anyone is interested in pursuing the Pro Micro-based µSLC1, the firmware may be downloaded at µSLC1 Pro Micro Firmware Version 03. It compiles, but has not been tested with a laser and it may have coding bugs not related to anything else even though most everything was copied from the Nano version. Change the pin locations in the Atmega 328 Nano 3.0 wiring/schematic based on the comments in the firmware. However, given that the primary advantage of the Pro Micro is a very slightly smaller form-factor, the hassle of working through all the above issues may not be justifiable unless you're already fluent in the use of the Pro Micro.


Specific Arduino Issues

The following sections deal with various things that may need to be done if everything doesn't go smoothly with respect to installing or running the Arduino IDE. :( :)

Burning Booloaders into the Nano or Pro Micro

These procedures are only required where an Arduino board arrives without a bootloader preinstalled, or where the boot loader has gotten corrupted. The one for the Pro Micro is documented at Burning Bootloader on the Pro Micro. But they are similar for many others. The instructions below apply specifically to the use of a Nano 3.0 as the Arduino ISP. This assumes a recent version of the Arduino IDE has been installed (I used 1.6.9) along with the Nano driver. "Go to" refers to the menus of the Arduino IDE.

  1. Plug the Nano into a USB port. Go to "Tools", "Port", and select the port that the Nano is on.

  2. Go to "Tools", "Board", and select "Arduino Nano". Go to "Tools", "Processor", and confirm that it is "ATmega328".

  3. Go to "File", "Examples", and select "Arduino ISP".

  4. In the Arduino ISP sketch:

  5. If desired, save the sketch as something like: "ArduinoISP_Nano" should this need to be done again. Ctrl-Shift-S or go to: "File", "Save as".

  6. Unplug the Nano from the USB port.

Follow the instructions in the following sections as appropriate:

Instructions for burning a bootloader into the Atmega328 Nano 3.0

  1. Wire up the Nano (ISP) to the Nano (target) as follows. ("Pin" refers to the Arduino numbering NOT physical pins!)

  2. Plug the Nano into a USB port. Go to "Toole", "Port", and select the port that the Nano is on. (It should be the same as above unless it is plugged into a different USB slot.)

  3. Go to: "Tools" and select "Burn Bootloader".

If this step completes without errors, it probably worked. ;-) If there are errors, double check the wiring and board/processor selections. Confirm that the bootloader was burnt successfully by unplugging the ISP Nano from the USB port, disconnecting the VCC and RST lines (at a minimum) between the two boards, and plugging the target Nano into a USB port. For a Far East clone, it should now come up something along the lines of "USB Serial CH340" with an associated COM Port - and voila! no errors. :) For a geniune Nano, it may say something about FTDI but should come up without errors.

Change the Programmer back to "ArduinoISP" for normal use and select the Nano's COM port.

Then upload the blink sketch or anything else that will provide a definitive indication of success.

Instructions for burning a bootloader into a Pro Micro

In addition to the Nano, the Pro Micro must be installed in the Boards Manager. The Pro Micro driver is not needed to burn the bootloaded, but will be to upload any sketches to the Pro Micro.

  1. Wire up the Nano (ISP) to the Pro Micro (target) as follows. ("Pin" refers to the Arduino numbering NOT physical pins!)

  2. Plug the Nano into a USB port. Go to "Toole", "Port", and select the port that the Nano is on. (It should be the same as above unless it is plugged into a different USB slot.)

  3. Go to: "Tools", "Boards" and select "Sparkfun Pro Micro".

  4. Go to: "Tools", "Processor", and select "Atmega32U4 (5V/ 16 MHz)".

  5. Go to: "Tools", "Programmer", and select: "Arduino as ISP".

  6. Go to: "Tools", and select "Burn Bootloader".

If this step completes without errors, it probably worked. ;-) If there are errors, double check the wiring and board/processor selections. Forgetting to select 5V, 16 MHz processor will result in an error. (The default is 3.3V, 8 MHz.) Confirm that the bootloader was burnt successfully by unplugging the Nano from the USB port, disconnecting the VCC and RST lines (at a minimum) between the two boards, and plugging the Pro Micro into a USB port. It should now come up as "USB Serial Device" with an associated COM Port - and voila! no errors. :)

Change the Programmer back to "ArduinoISP" for normal use and select the Pro Micro's COM port.

Then upload a sketch that will provide a definitive indication of success. (The normal Blink sketch will not work on the Pro Micro without modification since there is no LED on Pin 13.)


Kludge to Prevent Build Errors

This isn't necessary in all cases and may only occur with Windows XP, or a Pre-Jurassic PC. It's probably highly dependent on the specific PC, version of Windows, specific lines of code in the sketch, and the phase of the moon. ;-) The symptoms are that near the end of compilation, an error will be generated and it will abort. The error will be something like: "collect2.exe: error: ld returned 5 exit status". No one appears to fully understand what this means. ;-) However, there is a workaround that appears to solve it. Even if you aren't experiencing the error, the remedy is so simple and shouldn't create any problems of its own. Consider it innoculation. (This fix is from "ld returned 5 exit status" on Win XP #2989"):

  1. Make a short name directory without spaces on the C drive, for example C:\TEMP. It probably doesn't need to be on the C drive or called TEMP but these work. And what ends up there won't take up that much space. If there is already a TEMP or other suitably named directory, just let it use that.

  2. From the Arduino (this works in versions 1.6.6 and beyond) open "File", "Prefernces" and click on the link to the file "preferences.txt".

  3. Close the Preferences window and all open sketch windows so the Arduino IDE is no longer running, else it will just overwrite what you're about to do.

  4. Now edit the Preferences.txt file and add at the very start:
      build.path=C:\TEMP
    
    (Replace TEMP with the name you chose if not the same.)

  5. Save the Preferences.txt file and restart Arduino.

Now the error should not appear, hopefully, maybe. ;-) This worked for me on 3 PCs. Don't try to explain it, if it works, use it. :)

Firmware Technical Description

The firmware has three primary functions:

  1. Execute the warmup algorithm to get the laser tube to operating temperature and then run the digital control loop to lock the laser.

  2. Send P-Mode, S-Mode, and housekeeping data back to the GUI.

  3. Accept commands from the GUI to change locking parameters and/or state, or load or save locking parameters.

The code for (1) is in an Interrupt Service Routine (ISR) which is run approximately 977 times per second as determined by the match-compare interrupt for Timer0B whose PWM is set at 50 percent and used for nothing else. Within this ISR, the analog values for P-Mode and S-Mode are acquired, offset, and limited, and used as the input to the 8 State routines. Every 16th pair of P-Mode and S-Mode values, along with the heater drive value, are loaded into a First In First Out (FIFO) buffer to be sent to the GUI at around 61 Hz.

(2) is performed in the main loop which runs continuously looking for the FIFO to be non-empty, at which point it sends one set of P-Mode, S-Mode, Heater Drive, and one Low Speed Data value to the USB serial port.

(3) is also done in the main loop which looks for data sent from the GUI, decodes it, and performs the specified operation.

Setup

When the firmware starts, it first sets up the pin I/O direction and does a "lamp test" by turning all the LEDs on for 2 seconds. :-)

Next it sets up Timer0 for the 977 Hz interrupt and Timer1 to be used with an external input on Pin 5 for counting the REF frequency (if present).

It then checks to see if EEPROM location 0 matches EEPROMFormatValid, and loads the LCB from the UCB stored in EEPROM if it does; else it loads the LCD from the hard-coded DCB.

Finally, the USB serial port is opened at 57,600 baud. This low value is needed to minimize the chance of characters sent to the firmware being corrupted or missed. 57,600 baud is still over 10 times what's needed.

More to come soon, maybe.

References

These links open in a single new window or tab.

Lasers

  1. Sam's Laser FAQ. Including but not limited to:

UECIDE

  1. UECIDE: The Universal Embedded Computing IDE
  2. UECIDE Beta Programme (Dowload)

Arduino

  1. Arduino IDE, Refernce, Tutorials, more

Atmega 328 Nano 3.0

  1. Atmega 328 Nano 3.0
  2. Installing Drivers for an Arduino Nano in Windows
  3. Nano Driver - Windows 7 Instructions
  4. Arduino Nano v3.0 clones (How-to & Review)
  5. How to Burn a Bootloader to Clone Adruino Nano 3.0 - 2

Atmega ATtiny85 Digispark

  1. Learn to Use the ATtiny85 USB Mini Development Board
  2. Connecting and Programming the Digispark
  3. Digispark Basics

Pro Micro Atmega32U4

  1. Pro Micro and Fio V3 Hookup and Programming Guide
  2. Pro Micro Atmega32U4 Hardware Overview
  3. Pro Micro Atmega32U4 Windows Installation

Jan Beck's Information

  1. Interferometer Project Pages
  2. Github µMD1 GUI Source Code Repository