Someone kindly asked me to post this, so here goes.The Novak Input Plug System is very useful if you need to swap plugs to use different servos on different radio systems. The different plug styles in the kit are individually marked. In addition, the plugs are marked "WHT, RED, BLK" in the appropriate order that they should be installed on the plug. for reference, I'll place these at the top of the chart:
RED(+) BLK(-) WHT(signal)
=== === ===
Airtronics Red Black Brown
Sanwa Red Black Black <strong>[*]</strong>
Futaba J Red Black White
KO Propo Red Black Blue
Kyosho/Pulsar Red Black Yellow
Japan Radio(JR) Red Brown Orange
[*] I've never seen one, so don't ask!And there it is! All you have to do to replace the plug is make sure that you place the corresponding wire in the proper location as marked on the connector. For example, if you have a Futaba servo that you'd like to use on an Airtronics receiver, simply take the Airtronics connector from the kit, and and stick the Red in RED, White in WHT, and Black in BLK. If you don't have the input kit, but you have two servos, you should write down the order of the wires as they appear on the Airtronics servo, then remove it. Next, you would remove the plug off of the Futaba servo and install the Airtronics plug by inserting the White wire where the Brown one was, then the Black to Black, and Red to Red. I Hope you make use of it!
By the way, this chart is included with the N.I.P.S.
o 5VDC
|
5k pot 4.3k |
x---/\/\/\/\/\/--------/\/\/\/\/\-----------x------x
| ________|______|_______
| | 4 8 |
x----------------------------------|7 |
| 1N457 diode | | output
x--------->|---------------x-------|6 3|------------------
| | | NE555 |
| 68k | | |
x---/\/\/\/\/\/\/-----x----x-------|2 |
| |_______1_______5_______|
| | |
_|_ | _|_
___ 0.33uf | ___ 0.1uf
| | |
x----------x---------x-------x
|
|
-----
--- Gnd
-
+V o-------o--------o----o-------------o----o-------------o-----o +V
| | | | | |
Gnd o R1-100K | | | | R4--> R3 o Gnd
| | | | | | 4.7K 10K |
| | |--------| |---------| | | |
| | | 4 8 | | 5 14 | | |
| o------|7 | | 11|-----o |
| R2-15K | (555) 3|-----o---|3 | C2-0.22mF |
| o------|6 | | | (74121) | | |
| | | 2 1 | +---|4 10|-----o |
| | |--------| | 7 6 | |
| | | | |---------| |
| o--------+ | | | |
| | | | +--------- Servo |
| C1-0.22 mF | | Signal |
| | | | |
+------ o-------------o-------------o------------------------+
Notes:
Servo Controller Schematic and Code (TLJVERERR) (TLJFILE!FOUND)
Based on reading this newsgroup since the 80s, that a large percentage of the readers are somewhat electronic literate. If not, here are the instructions on how to use the three extra channels in your Futaba/Airtronic/anything that uses the Phillips NE5044. (Some older boxes may have older Signetics number CD8081, which is the same part).
To enable these additional channels you need to free pins 5, 6, and 7. These pins are grounded by Futaba to disable channels 5, 6 and 7. Once lifted/freed, the needed circuit for each channel is as follows:
To have an on/off channel, like it is common on ch 5, you need the following circuit:
+Vreg
|---------------+
| |
| R(3.3K)
R(39K) |
| o
pin>-+-R(10K)--+---R(4.7K)---o-> (SPDT switch)
| | o
C(0.01uf) R(39K) |
| | R(2.2K)
| | |
gnd gnd gnd<>
Notes: Pin refers to the freed pin. All wattages can be 1/8W.
+Vreg is the regulated voltage output from pin 15.
Keep the cap and the R(10K) close to the pin, the rest of the
circuitry can be placed anywhere (within reasonable distance).
Normally, there are holes previously made inside the box for
installing the above switch so pick a switch which fits inside
those holes.
Same circuit of the previous design, except that you use a different switch, that is, one that has a middle position in addition to the NC/NO.
Basically the same circuit except that you replace the SPDT switch and resistors with a Pot having the same range, ie. 5.5K or so.
>As far as patents go, the channel extender adds the 3 new
>channels in what I thought was a rather novel way, so I
>applied.
So, you thought of a novel way :-). Let me guess, you have some simple logic which syncs to the frame coming out on pin 2 of the DIN connector. Then when the last channel has gone by, you insert channels 5, 6 and 7 from your box back into the frame stream. I guess that a PIC with an A/D (ie. 16C71) is all the circuitry that you need (plus misc. caps/res). And yes, you don't need to move the trainer switch to do such task. Now, is this a patent material?
Hello R.C. Nuts!
Ever have the problem of people showing up at your hill with unmarked channels on their transmitters? You ask for their channel, and they say, "Um, 72.810?"
The frequency is not readily useful in preventing a disaster, is it?
Here's a interesting conversion that, once memorized, can me done in a few seconds in your head. You can then amaze your friends as you call out their correct channel number from just hearing the frequency!
Here goes:
Hope this is of interest to some out there - happy flying!